Housed in a former abandoned grain warehouse in the newly redeveloping Puerto Madero area, Faena is not a hotel in the traditional sense of the word. It is aimed squarely at models, actresses, rich entrepreneurs, and pop stars–plus a few dazed guests that just wish they were one of the above. This unusual and innovative property is the polar opposite of the Four Seasons and Alvear Palace a few miles away.

There is no lobby. You wander into a red hallway that looks like it came out of a David Lynch dream, red rugs topped by rectangular leather banquettes in the middle. Your bilingual "experience manager" takes care of everything from that point on, with in–room check–in and a phone number you reach them on directly throughout your stay.

Music lovers get a break from awful lobby tunes here. Each public room has a different soundtrack: mostly obscure international music that only those in the know will recognize. Theaters on site host hip tango shows, dramatic performances, and rock nights. Meeting rooms are considered way too stuffy––ideas are discussed and laptops passed around wherever the creative urge happens to strike.

The surprisingly retro lounge has candelabras and antiques from Argentina's gilded age, giving it the feel of a glamorous 1920's lounge. The casual Mercado restaurant has a Latin American vibe, with lots of brick, heavy wood, and regional antiques. A large patio outside features a fire ring and red bulbs strung overhead–a great spot during warm weather. The Bistro restaurant is the one that photographers drool over though: white–on–white with red accents, dramatic chandeliers, and life–sized unicorn heads mounted on the walls.

A red and white theme continues in the guest rooms, which are either ultra–cool or ultra–annoying depending on your point of view. The sleigh beds are queens, probably because a king wouldn't have fit the way they are angled against the corner. Controls for the lights and curtains are behind the bed–so you have to grope or get out of bed to adjust the lights. If you can figure out how all the dimmers work, however, the mood lighting possibilities are endless. Nobody will ever call these accommodations boring. They're equipped with hardwood floors, lots of white leather, red velvet curtains, and mirrored claw–foot armoires holding flat TVs with DVD players and surround sound. The elegant baths are spacious and well equipped, separated from the bedroom area by a wall of glass with a remote–controlled curtain. Avoid those on the lower two floors, which have less space and no views. Suites here aren't a huge step up in terms of amenities, but they do offer more space and furniture.

The outdoor pool with a hopping bar is surrounded by beautiful people from September to April, but guests continually complain that the deck space is too small and the chairs are too scarce. An excellent gym and spa is a different story and includes a Turkish hammam with scrubdowns. Two theaters rotate continually changing shows: tango performances, rock bands, plays, or chamber music.

Despite the hipster attitude, conventional hotel niceties like 24–hour room service, complimentary pressing, and evening turndown service are standard. Some say the "experience manager" idea can be problematic when it's your manager's day off and you've got a sub, but most guests agree that the arrangement is great more than it's not. While the polarizing Faena Hotel and Universe is not the best choice if your tastes run to the traditional, this is the trendy address in town for those are accustomed to being surrounded by what's fabulous and fashionable.

Review by Tim Leffel, photos courtesy of Faena Hotel & Universe.


Web Site: www.faenahotelanduniverse.com
Total Number of Rooms: 105
Published rates: $275 to $650