This is one of three Central American luxury retreats owned by movie producer Francis Ford Coppola (the other two are Turtle Inn, on Belize's Placencia Peninsula, and La Lancha, in Guatemala). Coppola first came to Belize just after the country gained independence in 1981. He tried to persuade the new government to apply for a satellite license in order to become a hub of world communications. They weren't interested. He did, however, succeed in finding an abandoned lodge on a pine–carpeted bluff overlooking the rocks and falls of Privassion Creek. Blancaneaux served as a private retreat for the film producer until 1993 when he "tricked it open" by flying a group of family and friends down for his 54th birthday.

When the sun is shining, Blancaneaux's hilly grounds are a lush, bright landscape of thatch, flowers, and lovely walkways. When the moisture settles in, the property can be shrouded in a magical mist. Indeed, one of the best places to be in Belize when it's raining is in front of the blazing fireplace in Blancaneaux's main reception area, your hands wrapped around a fresh cappuccino. At times like these, you may think you're in a ski lodge rather than the tropics. You'll remember where you are when the concierge reminds you to get ready for your horseback trip (Blancaneaux maintains its own stable of 18 sturdy, healthy equines), or tour of the Caracol ruins, nearby caves, and swimming holes.

The rooms at Blancaneaux are large, airy, and cut out of local hardwood lumber. Most have expansive private decks that open into the bedrooms and living spaces, while looking out over the rushing creek. They were designed by Coppola's discerning eye and Mexican architect Manolo Mestre's world renowned designs. You'll relax in wicker and wood furniture, soft hammocks, and reach for your cocktail on exquisitely carved slate tables. The semi–open showers are a treat, as are the variety of local natural bath products provided to all guests––along with a complimentary bottle from Coppola's Napa Valley vineyards. You can also stay in Francis' family villa (as long as he's not there himself), for maximum privacy and service; you'll have your own hot tub, private entrance, and thick wooden dining table, where you can choose to have all your meals.

Take a dip in the U–shaped hot pool above the creek, then swing by the spa built in the style of an Indonesian rice house and staffed with Thai massage therapists. Blancaneux's Ristorante Montagna offers an exquisite Italian–centric menu, with a range of salads, pastas, paninis, delicious pizzas from one of the country's only wood–burning pizza ovens, and, of course, a fine selection of wines. Most ingredients are fresh and from the lodge's own 4–acre organic herb and vegetable garden, which employs a variety of earth–friendly farming techniques and a full time staff of its own. The restaurant is often lively at night, with live music, roaming mariachis, and candle–lit splendor under the stars. An on–site hydroelectric dam powers the entire operation, making this one of the most self–sufficient resorts in the region. The lodge is located at Mile 14.5 and has its own airstrip, which many guests prefer over the 2.5–hour drive from Belize City.


Web Address: www.blancaneaux.com
Total Number of Rooms: 17
Published rates: $250 to $650

Review and photos by Joshua Berman.