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Turtle Inn — Placencia, Belize


2.5 kms from Placencia Village, Stann Creek, Belize


Turtle Inn is the beach point of Francis Ford Coppola's Central American resort triangle. This sumptuous cluster of cottages sits on a narrow stretch of beach just south of the tiny airstrip and just north of the laid-back fishing/tourist town that gives Placencia Peninsula its name. Here you'll find a unique blend of casual elegance and sandy–toed luxury that mixes a bit of Bali into Belize.

Turtle Inn Belize

If you've been to Coppola's other properties (Blancaneaux Lodge in Belize's Mountain Pine Ridge and La Lancha Resort across the border in Guatemala), you are familiar with the film producer's attention to detail. This is evident at Turtle Inn, where intricate Balinese doors, carved stone columns, and wood sculptures are examples of the Indonesian and local artwork displayed throughout the grounds. All of it is accentuated by lush flowerbeds and tropical vegetation beside the stone and brick pathways.

Turtle Inn sculpture fountatinAll of this was carefully planned out, to the point of flying in Balinese stone cutters during the construction phase and shipping doors and panels from far away across the Pacific. The bones of the resort haven't changed much in the past couple of decades, and for good reason. The property makes the most of the grounds and its waterfront location, with inviting communal areas for socializing, but with the ability to find your own private spot or collect your thoughts in your separate bungalow.

The turtles—stone and actual—greet you first, then there's a sprawling lounge, reception, and restaurant area under the large main thatched palapa. The open-air interior is tropical and inviting, filled with hardwoods and well-designed lighting, a gentle sea breeze blowing through. Beyond that, a walkway leads to the oval main pool, with a near-perfect beach bar after that facing the water.

Since Mr. Coppola is almost as well-known for his wines as his movies, there's an extensive wine shop on site and a wide selection available with dinner at the two restaurants on this side of the road. The one in the main palapa is Mare, which specializes in Italian dishes and seafood. It's a romantic place in the evenings that offers a surprisingly authentic taste of Italy, from fresh pasta to desserts that will transport your taste buds to Italy. Alas, during our visit the brick pizza oven was not functioning after fire number two put it out of commission. Apparently indoor pizza ovens and thatch huts don't mix very well, so it'll reappear later in an open area where guests can get involved in the cooking process with the kids.

dining at Turtle Inn Belize

You can get even closer to the water at The Gauguin Grill, a wide-open, toes-in-the-sands fish and seafood grill right next to the beach. It may be more casual, but you can still order a bottle of fine wine for a memorable evening. Explore the last dining option on the lagoon side of the property if you won't get a chance to travel around enough to sample Belizean food like a grandma would make. Auntie Lubie's may be priced at a level that would make the average local gasp, but the food is the real deal, serving stewed chicken, coconut shrimp, plantains, and other favorites.

The beach bar here just might be the best one in Belize, a wide palapa-covered semi-circle looking out at the water past the sand, with tables in the sand further back. Skilled bartenders mix up tasty cocktails—sometimes whacking through coconuts and pineapples with a machete—and sling Belikin beers to guests becoming new best friends. It gets especially lively at happy hour when there are generous half-price drink specials. One of Coppola's newest ventures is a line of spirits named after strong women from history, so you can sample cocktails made with those here, like the Ada Lovelace Gin or the Countess Walewska Vodka.

If you're a couple wanting a kid-free experience, there's a second swimming pool in a secluded spot. This triangular lounge area with embedded turtle motifs is adults-only and hidden away.

Pool at Turtle Inn Belize

Turtle Inn gets a lot of repeat business and for the "right" kind of guest it's a dream. In this case, the right kind of guest is not one that demands air conditioning every time the thermometer gets a few degrees above 75F. The bungalows here evoke a kind of 19th-century colonial luxury, back when people came to the seaside to cool off in the steady breeze and let the waves lull them to sleep. Adjust to the abundant screens, ceiling fans, and outdoor showers and you'll probably find this less energy-intensive method works just fine after all. Here, only the wines receive an artificial chill.

You won't find TVs in the rooms here either, though there is a Bluetooth speaker that will allow you to play some tunes while you get ready for dinner. Even communication with the front desk is delightfully retro: there's a "shell phone" you use to reach the staff. Flip a switch, speak into the conch shell, and someone will reply. In a concession to modern times, there is a good Wi-Fi signal throughout the property now, so you can use that old-school writing desk to answer e-mails or do research for that novel you're working on if needed.

The prime bungalows are right on the beach and at Turtle Inn that means you are really on the beach. As in most of Placencia, there's very little difference between high tide and low tide, so no matter when you walk down the stairs from your screened-in porch, a few more steps will put you in the water. Don't expect a wide Caribbean island stretch of sand: while this is the best beach area in mainland Belize, the natural environment has lots of sea grass and occasional seaweed washing up. (There's plenty of sand around the bar area with hammocks though for your social media posts.)

Turtle Inn luxury Belize

Other units step back from the water and get a bit less of a breeze, but all are beautifully decorated, offer at least one sitting area, and have large baths with outdoor garden shower areas enclosed by a stone wall. Organic bath toiletries are luxurious and in refillable containers. The well-stocked minibar includes beers from nearby Hobbs Brewing and other interesting items. The electric tea kettle or the Illy capsule coffee maker will be a welcome site in the morning. Other nice touches include robes, turndown service, and yoga mats to use.

Bungalows around the adult pool have nice terraces facing that and are only a few steps away from a dip. The two–bedroom units have two full bathrooms with giant tubs and two sets of showers, but the prime villa is Mr. Coppola's Pavilion Suite. That has two bedrooms, a loft area with another bed above a full kitchen, a dining table for eight, steam showers, and a big verandah leading to its own pool facing the water. A private butler makes sure you're taken care of at all times.

luxury bedroom Turtle Inn Belize

While many guests are perfectly happy lounging by the pool, on one of the floating decks, or in a hammock, Turtle Inn does offer a complimentary morning bird walk and plenty of other diversions for an additional fee. There's a regular Coppola wine tasting of four varieties with bread and local cheeses, yoga classes, a sunset cruise, and activities for the kids. Complimentary bicycles, paddleboards, and kayaks are available, or you can book an excursion further away for manatee spotting, scuba diving (there's a full dive shop), fishing, or jungle adventures. Placencia Village is close enough to bike to, or it's a short hop in a car.

Turtle Inn has created its own definition of luxury and the guests who book here tend to be a whole different crowd than you see in many other Caribbean resorts: well-read, adventurous, cinema-savvy, and willing to sweat a little to enjoy a special experience. In a country filled with independent resorts with personality, this one from Coppola Hideaway Resorts jumps over the high bar set by its peers and offers a delightfully different kind of vacation stay.

Web Address: www.thefamilycoppolahideaways.com
Total Number of Rooms: 19
Published rates: US$385 to $2,449 including taxes

Review and photos by Timothy Scott.