Carretera a Garrafon,
Isla Mujeres,
Mexico
Independent travelers will like this private house at the quiet end of Isla Mujeres––it's a stylish alternative to other properties on the island and Cancún's megaresorts. But be choosy about your room, as several are quite small.
While beach bums hang at the bars on Isla Mujeres's popular Playa Norte, the southern tip of the island is edged in rocky cliffs and dotted with vacation homes–one of which is Casa de los Sueños, a striking construction of sharp geometry and saturated colors, very much in the modern Mexican style.
 Its focal point is an airy living room with a very mod "conversation pit" that opens onto a small infinity pool, its sheer edge made all the more dramatic by its position overlooking––far below––a terraced hillside and the blue–green bay, where waves curl along a shallow reef.
The most spacious and well–equipped room is the Serenity master suite, which features a large whirlpool tub with a fine view over the water. If you really want to splash out, though, the so–called "villa" is the better option (at roughly US$1,000 per night); it has its own pool, plus a full living room, kitchen, and garden––and it's somehow tucked in among the other rooms in such a way that other guests might not even realize it's there.
Of the smaller standard rooms (all with showers only), the poolside Sun and upstairs Peace, which has Japanese style, are the largest; tiny Joy, however, is best for solo travelers. Rooms showcase excellent Mexican folk and contemporary art; Frette sheets are standard, and mini–fridges are stocked with complimentary sodas and beer. None of the rooms have televisions, phones or alarm clocks––nor even keys to the doors (but there are in–room safes).
A major component of the hotel is its Zen–inspired spa, where you can do yoga in the large, barrel–vaulted studio or have an invigorating massage. It is not fully equipped with a sauna and other water treatments, however.
 Although the property does not have a beach, it does have a pebbled waterfront terrace with lounge chairs, as well as a long pier stretching out into the bay. From here, you can take the inn's kayaks or snorkel sets and spy on the marine life in the sea–grass beds along the seafront (there are also some sandy–bottom areas for clearer swimming). To explore the rest of the island, you can take one of the well–maintained bicycles, or call a taxi––the ride up to the main town area takes about ten minutes.
Fortunately, the quiet that Casa de los Sueños affords does not come at the price of cuisine––the Lounge Almar restaurant, which is also open to the public, has an intriguing menu of Asian and Mexican flavors, including items like shredded duck with salsa verde.
While the small staff at the house is certainly attentive and helpful, anyone looking to be waited on hand and foot should choose a larger property––you're very much left to your own devices here, even at the fully stocked bar in the living room, where it's up to you to mix your own drink and mark it down in the honor book.
What with the lack of beach, this is an atypical luxury property in this area, but it's a good choice for anyone who appreciates contemporary Mexican architecture and a comfortable, house–like environment.
One (temporary) drawback: as of November 2006, substantial construction was going on next door. Rooms were quiet enough with windows shut, but outdoor lounging was punctuated by noise; everything should be finished by summer of 2007, however.
Web Address: www.casadelossuenosresort.com/
Total Number of Rooms: 9
Published rates: $300 to $500, incl. continental breakfast
Review and photos by Zora O'Neill
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