At the pastoral Hacienda Temozon you'll enjoy modern comforts thoughtfully arranged among the historic grounds and converted buildings of a 300–year–old sisal plantation. The largest of the three Starwood haciendas around Mérida, Temozon lies halfway between the capital and the ruins of Uxmal. If you're looking for luxury lodging in an off–the–beaten–path location, this is your place.

Just a short distance from the small Mayan village of Yaxcopoil, the hacienda provides a far more dramatic re–creation of the henequen plantation experience than its local siblings. Set on 35 hectares consisting mainly of manicured lawns dotted with historic farming implements, this stately hideaway provides about as placid and tranquil a space as money can buy.

As you enter the hacienda grounds along a palm–flanked stone path, you'll be greeted by a grand fountain spouting water from 18 stone animal mouths. Dramatic and impressive in both day and night, this display, and the entire hacienda, has a regal flair. It has even played host to dignitaries–– Mexican President Zedillo and U.S. President Clinton met here in 1999 and George W. Bush spent the night here later. The main building glows in a warm palette of bold reds and yellows, set against a canvas of lush green gardens. It houses most of the rooms, as well as the small reception desk, library and salon with billiard table.

Accommodations are named according to their former purpose (Botica, Enfermeria and Casa del Maestra, for example) and historic design details are noticeable throughout. Decorations include bronze or carved wood beds and hand–embroidered linens. All rooms have stone tables, spacious baths, black–and–white tiled floors, and 18–foot beamed ceilings. Unlike at the Hacienda Santa Rosa, there are no TVs, but all rooms are equipped with CD stereos, Internet access, and phones. Air conditioning and ceiling fans keep a slight breeze circulating, but you may find the plunge pools in some suites a better option for cooling down. At the end of the hacienda is Casa del Patron, a two–room suite with its own larger private pool.

Meals are a mix of international and Yucatecan fare and you can choose to eat them almost anywhere you want, and up to as late as 11 pm. Most guests choose to dine on the rattan–fitted terrace in back, which overlooks the water trough that stretches toward the pool. Contemporary touches like concrete pillars and a swim–up bar add to a stunningly dramatic pool area, but the design elements blend well with the historic feel that permeates the plantation. The preserved farm, factory machinery and nearby smokestack evoke a strong sense of rustic authenticity as you lounge by the pool in a cushioned chaise.

There's a tennis court tucked away, bike rentals, and a gym, but indulging with a spa treatment or massage at the underground cenote seems a more inviting alternative for the relaxed atmosphere at Temozon. Just be sure to plan in advance, as bookings can fill up quickly. Weddings at the hacienda's small chapel are also popular at this secluded romantic location.