Located on the corridor between San Jose Del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas, the One&Only Palmilla sits on 250 acres of a 900–acre master–planned community including private residences and one of the best golf courses in the region. A five–minute drive on a winding road goes past part of the 27–hole Jack Nicklaus course to the tiled entrance. As I arrived, the staff greeted me with a welcoming smile and unique relief from the muggy afternoon: a frozen pina colada popsicle.

Distinctive Mexican deco art with strong Spanish influence is evident throughout the resort in delicately patterned wrought iron, pre–Hispanic stone sculpture, along with massive wooden doors weathered with age. One&Only Palmilla offers ten categories of luxury accommodations, ranging from the 20 oceanfront superior rooms (at a generous 500 square feet) to their 12 beachfront one–bedroom luxury suites at 1,400 square feet. All rooms are presented as Mexican style "casas" in single– and three–story buildings hugging the resort grounds, perched above the resort's swimmable beach.

From the covered entrance, all guests are escorted directly to their room for personal check–in service by their butler. Over 50 butlers give 24–hour service to the 172 rooms and suites. Dependent upon your room category, you may share a butler with others in your casas or have your own personal butler. Personalized touches are helped along with the emailed preference checklist that guests complete before arrival. Based on your responses, your butler will take care to stock your favorites: Jack Daniels or Don Julio, fine European wine or local Mexican beer, fruits, or chocolate, starched or unstarched bed linen, or lilac or bougainvillea–scented aromatherapy.

The Terrace Junior Suites are decorated with what chic Mexican décor: soft warm neutral colors contrasting with an occasional bright splash of orange, green, red or pink. In these you can you enjoy the sweeping Sea of Cortez views throughout: from the spacious terrace, sitting and bedroom areas, and even from the bathroom.

Impressive baths feature a dramatic sculptured bathtub, rain shower, and twin vanity sinks. Standard amenities include flat screen satellite television, Bose system surround sound, voice and data lines, weathered wood writing desk and mini bar, and separate sitting area.

The grounds are beautiful and plush with shrubs, trees and flowers, almost as if the property was delicately etched into the vegetation. You will get your exercise walking as the property is spread out, but golf carts or bicycles are also available.

Celebrated chef Charlie Trotter brought his culinary expertise to the One&Only Palmilla. The signature restaurant, C, features an exhibition kitchen with an extensive wine list (850 at the time of visit). C's menu emphasizes fresh local ingredients seasoned with classic Mexican flavors. Trotter's famous "degustation" tasting menu paired with fine wines is served at the private dining rooms and invitation–only chef–table, offering an unobstructed view of the show kitchen. Private dining rooms can also be reserved. I'd suggest settling into C's lounge for an after dinner drink in their comfy chairs with views of the sea and the pool.

The palapas–style Agua, overlooking the Sea of Cortez, offers more relaxed, casually elegant dining. A fireplace and serenading musicians set the mood for a menu tagged "Mexiterranean." Besides the great seafood, I found the pizza surprisingly tasty, served on freshly baked, crusty focaccia–like bread with several choices of toppings. Alfresco dining is available amidst palm trees by the fountain courtyard. Moonlight tables just off the courtyard can be reserved that include a visit from the chef.

Healthy–conscious folks will be rewarded with tasty menus at One&Only's Spa. Chef Trotter collaborated with well–known nutritionist Mary Abbot Hess on the Spa Cuisine menu, replacing fat and calories with heat and Mexican seasoning such as lemongrass and citrus.

Adjacent to the historic Palmilla chapel, the phenomenal Spa at One&Only is a one–of–a–kind, 22,000 square foot retreat. Once you check in, you weave your way through a maze of six secluded buildings with 13 private spa villas (including six double villas). Your private villa features red tiled roofs, whitewashed walls, and outdoor fountains and gardens. Inside the air–conditioned villas are the treatment rooms, with a sensory float bed and a connecting changing room. Your sanctuary includes an open–air garden with outdoor rain showers for two, whirlpool baths and palapas–covered Mexican daybeds.

To sum up the experience at One & Only Palmilla, I can only say this resort is decadent luxury at its best, from their personal butler service to sumptuous cuisine to pampering spa treatments. For a full–service resort with all the trimmings, this is a hard one to top.


Web Address: www.oneandonlyresorts.com
Total Number of Rooms: 172
Published rates: $450 to $2,600

Review and photos by Diana Rowe.