Calle 50 y Beatriz M. de Cabal, Panama City
A pocket–sized boutique hotel in the heart of the city's most vibrant district, the Hotel DeVille offers classical European–style sophistication. With Oriental throw rugs on glistening marble and mahogany beds behind a quintessential Parisian facade, it tries hard to compete with The Bristol. In a city short on old–world–style hotels, this is a fine choice for those who prefer unpretentious and intimate inner–city hotels.
Recalling the days when Ferdinand de Lesseps' ill–fated scheme to carve a canal infused Panama City with fine buildings in Parisian style, the four–story DeVille transports passers–by metaphorically back to the city's heyday. The furnishings may not rise to the level of snazzier competitors in town, but the location is unbeatable. Tucked away on a relatively quiet residential street away from the hubbub of the major avenues, city sophisticates will appreciate its proximity to the city's best restaurants and clubs, while business–folk are mere steps away from the financial district.
Guests are greeted by liveried bellboys in a rather dour tarred driveway tight up to the street. Awnings keep off the rains when taxis pull up to the twin sets of doors––one for the hotel, the other for the adjoining and trendily hip restaurant. With its mahogany Louis XV–style period furnishings reflecting on glistening travertine and marble floors, the lobby literally shines. Gilt chandeliers hover overhead from the recessed ceiling, shining a light on the mahogany reception desk attended by friendly staff in well–groomed business attire. Plump gray sofas and lounge chairs fill the space, lent color by oriental throw rugs and slightly incongruous contemporary art.
Accessed by both a staircase or twin elevators to the rear of the lobby, the suites and junior suites follow the theme, although less successfully. First the good points. For one, they're spacious, with soaring beamed ceilings and either travertine or gray marble floors with Oriental rugs. Divinely comfortable mattresses rest atop mahogany queen beds with heaps of fluffy down pillows and 350–thread Egyptian cotton sheets. And all the expected amenities come standard: cable TV, in–room safes, mini–bars stocked with crystal glasses, alarm radios, and coffee–makers. Slippers are a nice touch, as are the his and her robes in the lovely marble–clad bathrooms with vast walk–in showers. Still, incongruous elements in the furnishings and decor inspire a "what on earth were they thinking?" response. The striped contemporary sofas look chintzy. And Oriental vases (and mother–of–pearl inlaid armoires in the Grand Suite) throw the mood out of kilter.
 The hotel's highlight is the Ten Bistro restaurant, launched in 2005 by French chef Fabien Migny, who established his reputation as a leading luminary on the local dining scene at Eurasia and La Cocotte. The theme is intriguing. Everything comes in tens. Ten seafood entrees and ten meat dishes served nightly, for ten bucks apiece. The theme has been taken to extremes, however, as this chic contemporary eatery in minimalist whites and orange closes at 10pm…just as the restaurant scene begins to buzz. Fusion dishes are artfully served with colorful swirls and carefully considered saucy splotches. Migny waves a magic wand in the kitchen, which delivers consistently satisfying treats such as a light cream of lentil soup infused with shrimp; tuna Sashimi in jellied salsa; grouper filet poached in coconut milk with a light curry foam; and grilled New York steak with a balsamic vinegar reduction, caramelized onions and sautéed asparagus and mushrooms. Choose from an extensive international wine list (heavy on French and South American labels) as well as a long list of cocktails. However, neither the restaurant nor hotel have a bar. Fitness buffs will also be disappointed, although business functions for up to 80 people can be hosted.
While The Bristol, nearby, outperforms The DeVille on most levels, the latter has a loyal clientele grateful for its conscientious management and friendly staffing, while the presence of Ten Bistro is a feather in the cap.
Web Address: www.devillehotel.com.pa
Total Number of Rooms: 33
Published rates: $175 to $500
Review by Christopher Baker, photos courtesy of Hotel DeVille.
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